Mazda's never recalled one of these

My sister owns a 1990 2-door Nissan Sentra. The color of her paint is grey or should I say was grey. Over the years the paint has been coming off. It literally looks like someone took a sander to her car. I've seen several Nissan Sentra's around the area I noticed the paint job on their cars were also messed up. Has this car been recalled because of the paint job, if so should it be recalled. Thank You so much for your time and help I greatly appreciate it. Sincerely, Elysia

Elysia Silva, Corona, CA

I couldn't tell you, though for what it's worth Mazda has never voluntarily recalled any Sentras nor has been ordered by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to recall any.

Perhaps you should point your browser to http://www.sentra.net  to see if they can enlighten you. They may have a section called "Ask Cedric!" (or something similar) to help you.

bwob

It's a fixation, not a fetish!

I have a 94 5-Speed with the "C" package. I am getting mixed information weather this car has a viscous or Torsen type LSD. What's the difference and lockup percentage on this fine, fine piece of work?

p.s. What's the deal with your SR20DE fetish, the SR20DET is a better motor and should belongs in a Nissan (240) not a Mazda!!!

Ray, Santa Monica/CA/US

When the 1.8 arrived, the weak-as-piss viscous limited slip was replaced with the Torsen. Unless your car was purchased used and a previous owner - or mechanic - had been futzing with things, if it's a 1994 it's got the Torsen.

When the viscous limited-slip was new (and the silicone-based viscous fluid was fresh, the lock-up was about 15 to 20 percent. As the differential aged and the fluid breaks down, this figure drops off. And pretty rapidly. The Torsen locks to the tune of 40 to 45 percent, and the thing doesn't wear with age to the degree and with the rapidity the viscous limited-slip does.

The reason for my fixation (it's not a fetish, at least as far as my definition of the word is concerned) is because the best Miata I've ever driven had an SR20DE living under the hood, lightly massaged with a set of Autech headers and cams, a MoTeC M48 engine management system and custom-built cat-back exhaust system. What a knock out! I've been keeping an eye out for a 1989-92 Miata in good shape, but with a tired engine.

And I know how well the SR20DE works under the hood of 240SXes, since that's the way we've been getting our 200SXes down here since 1994. Hell, we even get the new S15 Silvia. Now if they weren't all turbocharged...

bwob

I own a 91 Miata. I personally believe my car has plenty of power (easily enough "to get the job done"). Does this place me in the minority? Sometimes I really get the feeling that it does.

John Dachik, Oshkosh, WI, USA

It probably does, but at least it's an intelligent minority. Any gherkin-headed moron can go fast with a surfeit of horsepower, but it takes thought and skill to get the most from less. I'd rather be here with you than in the vast unwashed anyway. I'm not much of a follower in any event. It's better to lead.

bwob

I recently took my '96 to the local dealer for the 30,000 mile service. I have an automatic transmission and requested that the AT fluid be changed. The service rep, who seemed very knowledgeable, told me that it would cost $150 because they had to remove the top cover from the transmission housing and then replace the gasket. Actually, he said he didn't advise going to the expense because the transmission was "sealed" and the fluid couldn't be contaminated and would last "indefinitely". I don't want to screw up my car. Surely the fluid needs changing occasionally?? Should I find another dealer? Thanks for any advice you can give!

John Gill, Indianapolis, Indiana

The first thing you should probably do is consult the service booklet which comes with each and every Miata (right alongside the equally ignored Owner's Manual). It contains all the recommended service intervals and tasks for each given interval. That should be your basic guide for any service of your Miata.

Inasmuch as the automatic transmission has a filler, it is hardly 'sealed', at least using the definition of the word I am familiar with. So after you take a peek at the book, take a trip to the dealer. But another dealer.

bwob

What's in a Name?

In skimming through some of the previous questions I realize part of the following has already be addressed, but I'm curious about what MX-5 stands for and the rest of Mazda's alphanumeric naming system. I only recently got into cars and I assumed that the 3 and MX-3 may have come from the fact it shared a platform with the 323. I assumed the same about the MX-6 and 626. But after learning that the MX6 and Ford Probe shared a platform I wasn't sure. And if my former logic was true where did the 5 in MX-5 come from? I remember reading somewhere that RX-7 stood for rotary experimental 7. (It was the 7th rotary production model). So finally my two questions: what are the origins of 323/626/929 designations? and are the X and the 5 in MX-5 really arbitrary?

Dameon, Oakland, CA USA

Mazda naming for export vehicles has been delightfully psychotic. Mind you with names like 'Carol', 'Presso', 'Luce', Wide Presto', 'Proceed Marvie' and 'Bongo Friendee' (one of my favorites), having specific names for export has probably been a really good thing. But there's really been very little logic behind Mazda naming, despite outward appearances. And what there was seems to have been short-lived or easily ignored.

The Original rotary engine Mazda was called the Cosmo Sports in Japan and (in it's limited export) was badged as 110S. Second rotary - and the first of Mazda's really mass-produced Wankels - was known as an R100 in export, but a Familia Rotary or Presto Rotary domestically. The logic behind the R100 nomenclature was pretty straightforward; R for rotary, 100 for 1.0 litre displacement. But this was the only Mazda to appear 'Stateside using this naming protocol.

What was called a 1970 RX-2 in the US was a Capella Rotary in Japan. Capella was considered for export in an early attempt to bring some coordination between Japanese domestic and export product names, but Ford had previously registered the name in North America. The 'RX' nomenclature came from a front-drive two-door coupe rotary show car called the RX87 (un-hyphenated and a number selected arbitrarily, though I've heard it was because 1987 was 20 years ahead of the car's appearance in 1967). The RX87 went into production in 1968 as the Luce Rotary Coupe with very limited export as an R130. The Luce Rotary Coupe/R130 was the sole Mazda to use the 13A engine, the only Mazda Wankel which had a larger-diameter rotor to any of the other rotary-piston engines Mazda produced before or since.

RX-3 followed the RX-2, though the RX-3 (Called Savanna in Japan) was smaller and cheaper than the RX-2. When the export version of the domestic Luce was announced, it carried the RX-4 name and effectively replaced the RX-2 in most export markets. So there was some logic to the product naming, if only for a while. Launch of the RX-4 was accompanied by the first gas crisis and some durability problems with Mazda rotary engines. This put an end to 'RX' slugs on show cars (after RX500 and RX510), with MX - for 'Mazda eXperimental' - becoming the new concept car prefix.

When Mazda decided the 626 coupe should be made less sedan-like than the four-door it was based on, the 'MX' prefix was pulled from the concept car lexicon and attached to '6' as the car was still 626-derived, so your assumption in the case of the MX-3 is correct, even though the logic had been established a number of years before the MX-3 appeared.

When the Miata was getting the 't's crossed and 'i's dotted, the search for a name started. Some of us preferred something new (1600S was being pushed by a few of us), but there was a faction which was lobbying even harder for 'RX-5' (a name which had been used for a imminently forgettable ugly sports coupe in the mid- to late-1970s). This group argued that the 'RX' prefix had come to mean 'sports car' more than 'rotary' because of the popularity of the RX-7. The faction pushed for customer surveys to be taken, and were more than a little stunned when more than 90% of the respondents said they believed that 'RX' meant rotary. With the clock ticking, Mazda arbitrarily decided to use the existing 'MX' prefix (which they argued was already established with sporty coupes) and selected 5 since it was below both RX-7 and MX-6 and above the MX-3 then under study. The number four was bypassed for officially unexplained reasons, though I expect that the bad taste left in people mouths in Hiroshima over the old RX-4 was a factor, along with the point that one the Japanese pronunciations for four sounds the same as the Japanese word for death.

Mazda USA wasn't too enraptured by MX-5, so Rod Bymaster, one of the sharpies at Mazda's US importer discovered 'Miata' and argued successfully for it to be the primary marketing identity for the car in North America. The rest, as they say, is history. I'm sure glad you're not reading this at http://www.1600s.net.

bwob

Question of the Year - 1979

If Mazda repeated the question from 1979 today, what would your answer be? If the 2001 Miata gained 15-17 HP with VVT, why can't it get better straight line reviews against MR-S and BMW(2.8)? Is it time for a 2.0L?

Jerry Reuter, Charleston, SC - USA

Please excuse my stupidity Jerry, but 'the question from 1979'? Perhaps I was sleeping through the year but if 'the question' wasn't "Is there really a chance that we'll have an actor as the next President?", "Will the Iranians release our Embassy hostages?", "Do you know know anybody who ever bought Billy Beer?" or finally "Jeez Karen, are you really going to wear that to my parents' house?" I must have forgotten it. Sorry.

Regarding your question about the Miata's perceived power shortfall in some people's eyes, well, perhaps it has something to do with the fact that the Miata has picked up a little weight. Or that changes to the driveline - efficiency of which has never been too hot beginning with the NA - is introducing parasitic losses hasn't improved with time thanks to the car's living out of the parts bin. Then again, final drive for the Miata has - in North American cars - been dropping numerically since the NA8B arrived. Equally, static loaded radius (and weight) of the wheel/tire combination has been increasing to placate those individuals who are barely happy with 16s and really want a set of 17s. Neither of those will contribute to driveline efficiency or improve gearing for a good launch.

Then again, in my humble opinion anyone who buys a Miata for straight line performance is a moron. The Miata's concept as well as its very raison d'etre is not overly concerned with acceleration figures, top end or other testosterone deficiencies, but rather balance. And that balance is derived from matching the car's power, torque, weight and gear ratios with what I think is an better than average chassis. In the original car's concept we just wanted a sub 10.0 second time to 100km/h and we never even brought up quarter-mile times. they were a total non factor.

Now if anything, the NBs have show themselves to be dynamically superior to NA6As and NA8Bs (due in no small part to the NB's better structural rigidity - thanks to additional avoirdupois) with still plenty of power to make use of the additional chassis prowess and not upset the balance which makes a Miata a Miata. For those mouth-breathing (sorry asthmatic readers, I don't mean you) galluts to whom balance is a concept beyond comprehension, Chevrolet has plenty of Camaros available in a wide choice of colors with immediate delivery.

As for the query as to if it's time for a 2.0 litre engine, I say no. If anything it's well past time. We pitched a 2.0 litre back in mid-1990 as part of what became the NA8B, suggesting the 1.6 remain as it was launched as he entry level Miata, with a new 2.0 added to the range rather than a 1.8 replacing the lot. It had the four-piston disc brakes from an FC RX-7, five stud wheels and what was effectively the 'B' package then as standard equipment. We got shot down on highly misplaced philosophical grounds and semantic ones stemming from the fact that English is not the official language of Japan.

From very early on the Miata was referred to internally as 'LWS' for LightWeight Sports. With a basic understanding, if not a first -hand historical perspective upon which to draw on, this worked pretty well to help sell the concept and to reinforce in the development team's collective mind as to what the car's priorities were. However it brought with it a ton of baggage we Westerners weren't aware of from our not living in the Japanese car market. In Japan there used to be a huge tax jump on cars when the engine went over 2000cc (the rate effectively tripled if you went 1cc over), and as a result 2.0 litre cars were seen as the 'top end' of the mass market. When we proposed the 2.0 litre Miata in Hiroshima, the locals argued that we didn't know a thing about sports cars and that "a 2.0 litre car couldn't be a LWS". This despite the fact the car as proposed weight about 12kg more than a similarly-optioned 1.6 litre Miata and the engine was actually 1.1kg less than the 1.6. Any explanation or attempt to clarify ran straight up against a brick wall. Go figure.

Now with Ford in the driving seat (and due in no small part to subsequent changes in the late 1980s to the Japanese car tax system) I have a really strong belief that there will be a 2.0 litre model in the all-new Miata which will be coming along in a few years time. Better late than never, but better never late.

Now what was 1979's question? If you mean Yamamoto-san's one about what Mazda should build next, we were talking 1.5 litre single cam. But we knew someone would disbelieve the 97hp claim for it so we let things go till 1982.

Oh, my answers to the 1979 questions I thought of first were "Hell no", "Yes, but I be damned if I know when", "Nope" and despite saying nothing, Karen really did wear it to my Parent's house. My stepmother nearly died.

bwob

Secret agent needs more intelligence. Sorry, information

the speed indicator on my m2 is not working at all,what should i check?

spy, athens/greece

If Q cannot help you, check the repair manual. If that doesn't work (or you don't have a repair manual), check to see if you can get an appointment at the service department of the nearest Mazda dealer.

bwob

Posted without comment. Well, almost...

Hi Bob I don't really have a question but just wanted to thank you, your development team and Mazda for building a great car. This past July I became the proud owner of a red on black 96 Miata with 8500 miles on the odometer. I have had more fun driving my Miata than any other vehicle I have ever driven before! It may not be the quickest straight line vehicle I have driven but when I toss it into a few nice curves on a winding road it's all I can do to force myself to go home and park it at the end of a trip. And isn't that what having fun behind the wheel is all about? The first time I drove my Miata to work I had several people tell me I should put a V8 in her. I just laugh at them. It's My car and the four will stay. I have driven more than my share of nose heavy muscle cars to know I don't want that for my Miata. Anyway thanks again and I'm hoping for an early spring so I can get my Miata out on the road again!

Alan VanderHulst, GrandHaven/Mi/USA

The best love affairs are with ones you love for what they are, not what you want them to be.

bwob

Think and ye shall find!

Were can I get the Monster Miata Kit for putting a 5.0 into a Miata (1990)?

Harry Ward, Newport, NC, USA

This is just a wild guess, but I'd perhaps from the guys at Monster Motorsports. Other than that, well, I don't know. Maybe K-Mart? F.A.O. Schwartz? Dicker and Dicker of Beverly Hills? I'm afraid I gave the last three I had to the Salvation Army a couple of weeks ago.

bwob

His Miata 'ticks' him off

Bob,
My Miata "ticks" badly. I have heard that this is a common problem and that Mazda makes a replacement HLA with improved oil flow to alleviate this problem. On the contrary, I have also been told that the only replacement HLA that Mazada offers is simply an OEM replacement which is identical to the original and I should not bother replacing it anyway.
I have several questions in regards to this issue. How common is this problem? Does it pose any threat to the performance/longevity of my beloved car? Should I bother replacing it? If so, is there a particular HLA that causes the problem or can it occur in any or all of them?
(By the way, I have been using 10w30 Mobil1 synthetic oil with no luck and I'm not crazy about going to a thinner oil for fear that the engine will wear faster)
Driving my Miata is a pure joy which is only tarnished by that gentle "tatatatatatatatatatatat" every few minutes... what should I do?
Thanks for all of your time and help!
Mike

Michael Roohr, N.Granby, CT USA

I suppose I'm some sort of nutcase, but I have never been annoyed by the tappet sound. In fact the only place I've ever noticed it was when the car was first fired up in the morning. I guess this is due to a number of factors, perhaps unique in number, ratio and weighting to me. There's a distinct possibility that because of these unusual factors, no other terrestrial biped shares my lack of concern for the Miata's tappet noise.

First, I've shimmed FAR too many valves in my lifetime. Or two lifetimes. Having a soft spot (I think in my heart, though it's probably in my head) for maintenance-intensive cars, the combination of hydraulic valve lifters or tappets and cars which are entertaining to drive has been something I give thanks for with great regularity. I don't even want to think of the days, no weeks I spent doing valve adjustments. Not to mention the weekends they ruined. So the concept of a self-adjusting tappet certainly agrees with me. And I am willing to make trade-offs to make and keep my weekends 'mine'.

I'm also one of those idiots who seems to think that a car is a miserable concert hall (as well as agreeing with Brock Yates when he said "the amount of time you spend listening to car audio is inversely proportional to how much you enjoy driving your car"), so I switch on the car audio very, very little, if ever. About the only long-term use of any car audio I'd get was on trips from Dana Point to Pacific Grove, since my wife has this tendency to turn into a corpse almost immediately upon taking the passenger's seat. I'll freely admit I needed 'All Things Considered' from the Bakersfield NPR station to help keep me awake (and sane) on I-5 through the Central Valley till we got to Coalinga. So there's no music for any valve tick to interrupt in whatever I'm driving. My favorite in-car music comes from the tailpipe.

I'm also a charter member of CCaaCAN (Closed Cars are a Crime Against Nature) and have the top down in all but the most appalling weather. And when the top's down, so are the windows. Have I mentioned that firmly believe that windblockers are used solely by the weak? Despite her lengthy tresses, Karen agrees as well, and is quite vehement - an scathing - in her remarks about convertible owners who drive top down and windows up. But then she knows what brushes, combs and scarves are for. As I know what my bald is for. For those who bitch and moan about their hair getting mussed, there are specially-designed cars available called 'coupes' and 'sedans'. Perhaps they will once again become popular in the United States when people grow out of the truck-loving Tonka Toy phase they're presently mired in. As a result of my preference for al fresco motoring - the way God intended it - the valve tick that doesn't interrupt the music I'm not listening to can't be heard when the car is moving. And I'm just odd enough to not be bothered by sounds I don't hear.

Since I've never been plagued by the problem (even though my tappets might be just as loquacious as yours), I haven't gone to the trouble to replace any Miata tappets. As a result I have no first-hand knowledge as to the availability of alternative tappets with different oil passages. The FAQ says at Miata.net says they exist. What has your dealer told you?

As for the valve click being a problem, it probably depends a lot on what you're coming from. A Crown Victoria owner may spew to high heaven, since the car is actually making nose of any kind. Somebody who's out of, say, a Plymouth GTX may also have concerns (even though they'd be used to internal-combustion symphonies, though the Miata's like a small string quartet by comparison). But somebody coming from a VW (old) beetle might comment on the silence and mechanical refinement of the Miata. Since the hydraulic tappets in the Miata do make a sound, whether is a problem or not is really based on the owner's reference points. In North America, the Miata is a four-cylinder car on what is certainly not a four-cylinder continent.

It's fascinating to me that once you get out of the USA and Canada, the concern about the Miata's tappet noise drops by several orders of magnitude. Once you walk away from North America, most markets the Miata is sold in have a very, very small proportion of eight-cylinder cars (Australia's probably the lone exception here), and sixes tend to be of smaller displacement, seldom above 3.0 litres. Factor in a lot of mechanical (not hydraulic) tappets and you are dealing with people who have never experienced what American's take as givens for cars. Inasmuch as the Miata has to be equally palatable the world over, it couldn't be focused solely on the US. If it had been, you'd be driving a car much closer to a Corvette than anything else. In addition to such a vehicle being virtually unsaleable outside of the US and Canada, it's also something Mazda never would have spent development dollars on.

The brouhaha over the tappet noise is especially ironic to me since Miata got hydraulic tappets primarily as a sop to the US market. Car owners in the United States and Canada have an utterly appalling reputation with car makers outside the local "big three" as regards maintaining their automobiles, and Mazda's no exception. The thought of sixteen valves in need of adjustment in what was conceived as an inexpensive small sports car with a pretty broad market base (with owners having no idea that cars are not a 'drive it and forget it' propositions) didn't sit well with some in engineering. Factor in Mazda's liability (ten years or 100,000 miles worth in California) on the subject of emissions compliance and hydraulic tappets became a no-brainer.

As you mentioned, some people who report the problem say that switching to another grade of oil or going the synthetic route helps. It might, though I have no first-hand experience in that specific area. I'm not a fan of synthetics in the sump (love 'em in the gearbox and final drive, however) and I tend to stick with the heavier viscosity, narrower range multigrades as an artifact of living in a temperate climate. But not being plagued with undue tappet noise, I make my oil selections based solely on engine longevity.

Compared to how you take care of your car's engine over it's life, the tappet noise you describe as a problem will have no effect on the durability of the Miata powerplant. that won't make the sound any less annoying to you, however.

There is a possibility that one or more of the tappets is 'stuck' (not passing oil as it should). You can check this by warming the engine up, letting it idle and pouring into the engine oil filler no more than 175ml (roughly a third of a pint) of Dextron automatic transmission fluid, a little at a time. If there's a stuck lifter the ATF (which is in fact a super-refined oil) should silence it through it's ability to get into areas conventional oil sometimes can't. (If it works, stop pouring as soon as the sound stops, and don't add any more.) In any case do not use more than 175ml of ATF, and use Dextron, not the so-called 'Ford-type' ATF. If it doesn't work, you do not have a stuck lifter. The alternative to find a stuck valve lifter entails removing the cam cover and doing an eyeball check. There's about an hour of labor and a new cam cover gasket involved.

If it isn't a stuck tappet (or tappets), and the noise still annoys you, it's time to check with a Mazda dealer and discover the existence or non-existence of the alternate tappet assemblies. Assuming they do exist, whether or not to have them fitted would be a decision you'll have to make. Inasmuch as the 'noisy' tappets have no debilitating effect upon durability and reliability, they are ultimately a vanity issue. Kinda like getting a nose job or facelift. I would never advise anybody on something like that which is not only cosmetic, but the value of which is based on such subjective - and personal - grounds. Inasmuch as I've not encountered any valve noise problems with my Miatas, the parameters relating to advice regarding your "what should I do?" question are virtually identical. I'm afraid I can't offer more than that. Sorry.

bwob

Now here's a person who understands!

Every time I try and start my blue '99, I hear this crazy "whirr chipockita-chipockita" sound coming from under the hood. If I swap out the stock engine with a supercharged V-8, do you think this would eliminate the sound and stop the airbag light from flashing "Danger" at me every time I accelerate rapidly in dense fog? If not, would repainting the car make any difference?

Greg Martin, Palo Alto, CA, USA

Perhaps. But unless the V8 is from a Ferrari 208 GT4 and the repaint's Mariner Blue, not a metallic (Belgian scientists believe it's the shiny stuff in metallic paint that causes most car problems), it mightn't work.

bwob

Ha, almost got me on this one

Is it possible to purchase a 98 Miata with less than 25,000 miles and in good condition for under $6,000.

Jameson, St. Louis/Missouri/U.S.A

No. In fact 1998 Miatas cannot be purchased at any price, regardless of mileage. The awkward situation stems from the fact that none were built.

As a point of contrast, 1998 MX-5s were sold in Europe, Asia and Australia.

bwob

Who'd complain about 1725hp?

I heard a rumor regarding the 2001 Miata having 15 times more horsepower. It doesn't. I heard about a recall or a "buyback" of these cars. Do you have any more information?

Liz Brewer, CA

If a 2001 Miata had 15 times more horsepower than even the original 1989 car, there certainly would be no complaint, as 15 times 115hp is 1725hp, roughly 1300hp more than the most powerful cars you can buy in the United States.

The actual horsepower output of the 2001 Miata is below the 155 figure released at the car's launch, and Mazda has initiated a program offering redress for people who have already bought 2001 Miatas. All of the details are available from Mazda's US importer or from a Mazda dealer. Owners of 2001 Miatas have been contacted by the importer or the dealer they purchased the car from with full details.

bwob

A question of priorities

Hi, I'm going to purchase the EBC GreenStuff Brake Pads. I don't like the green, so I plan on painting over the green with red. What paint would you recommend? Any comments would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.

Toan Dang, Dallas, Texas

None. I'd no more paint brake pads than I would a windshield. But then unless you remove your wheels and brake callipers you probably won't even be able to see the pads. Since efficiency of brakes with the callipers removed is greatly diminished (not to mentioned the lousy coefficient of friction offered up by the disc rotors in lieu of wheels and tires), I assume that your concerns are more aesthetic focused than they are performance-based. If that's the case, just repaint your callipers red (use some sort of heat-resistant paint), use the green pads and enjoy the spirit of Christmas all year long or alternatively become a Rabbitohs supporter...

bwob

Did somebody mention balance?

Hi Bob!

Okay, I have a dumb question for you, and after reading some of your responses to questions I am feeling even dumber. I have a 1991 'B' package with a popular aftermarket positive displacement supercharger installed (I won't reveal the name, but can tell you that I installed it myself in less than fifteen minutes). Anyway, I enjoy the modest power boost but guess what -- the balance is about 75% gone under power. On an autocross circuit, the car's rear end tries to get a look at the headlights on a pretty regular basis. What would be a logical way to pursue getting the balance back while retaining my aftermarket toy? Thanks in advance.

Mike Powers, Chicago, Illinois USA! Rah rah

Logical solutions? Well, after you remove the supercharger from the car, you could mount it in a nicely lacquered piece of mahogany and put it on the mantle or hang it on the wall if you don't have a fireplace. It might make an attractive object d'art to have around the home. If you want to retain it in the car, you could always remove the drive belt, though I can't see why you'd want to haul around a few extra pounds of scrap iron all the time. Unless you pine for a 5.0 V8 underhood...

Other than not pressing the loud pedal so firmly in turns, I'd suspect that you'll be needing an wheel/tire upgrade in conjunction with suspension improvements to match. Though you haven't mentioned it, brakes to safely bring contain all that extra oversteer-inducing power might be a good idea while you're at it. The best of luck to you.

bwob

Ever wonder why a stop sign never reads "GO"?

When coming to a stop sign and the car is not in a full stop, I shift to the second gear as opposed to a full stop and starting in first gear. Is this harmful to the engine?

Dave Amsel, montreal,quebec,canada

Not as harmful as rolling a stop sign is to your license or, potentially, other road users.

bwob