In some of your replies you have referred to the Miata as Series NA, NB and NB8B. The car classified section of the Miata. Net Web lists the cars in three categories, 90-93, 94-97 and 99 & Later. I've also seen the Miata referred to as M1 and M2. Where are the break points for the various identifiers?

Don Williams, Bethesda, Maryland, USA

Nomenclature for the various generations of Miatas could be the subject of a university thesis, but here's a short version.

The terms 'M1' and 'M2' were coined by owners to distinguish the first- and second-generation Miatas from each other. The 'Mark I' and 'Mark II' monikers applied in the UK are effectively the same. The official terms for each are NA and NB.

Mazda applies series names to the various versions of the vehicles it produces. The last two generations of RX-7 sold in the 'States (the 1986 and 1992 cars) were FC and FD, for examples. Miata's have used the letter 'N'. The first generation car was an NA, the current one is an NB. the next one should be an NC. The full model designator will have a number of other numerals or letters added to serve as internal descriptors. The original 1.6 litre first-generation Miata was an NA6CE, and the 1.8 liter which appeared in the 1994 model year was an NA8C. To simplify figuring out which Miata is which, a version of this system has been unofficially used within Mazda which takes the generation of the car (NA or NB), adds the engine displacement (6 or 8) and then an A - to describe an 'original' version of a given generation - or B - to describe a facelifted variant. So as far as the US and Canada are concerned, all 1990 through 1993 model year Miatas can be called NA6As and all 1994 through 1997 model year 1.8s NA8Bs. Europe and the Third World got a 'new' low-output (88hp) 1.6 late in 1994 known as an NA6B which North America and a few other places were spared.

The all-new car launched as a 1999 model in the US and Canada through the end of the 2000 model years was an NB8A, the 2001 is an NB8B. Again, there are NB6As and NB6Bs sold in other markets. Though I know of no case where it's been needed, if Mazda decide to do one more facelift or freshening on the current car, there theoretically could be an NB8C before the NC3A appears. But I'm getting ahead of things...

bwob

I have been looking at my owners manual for my new 2001 Miata 6 speed and I can't find anything on proper shift speeds (rpms) my guess is around 3000 rpms but you would thing the manual would say something. What do you think Bob?

Ralph Gallo, New York, NY USA

Your question is rather like asking when you should go to the bathroom. While it's nice to be regular, it really depends on what and when you've eaten, your condition and the proximity of the porcelain throne. There is no universal speed at which to change gears as conditions (road, topography and traffic ones) will vary sufficiently that you can no more generalize about the 'perfect' speed to change gear at than you can saying that a sandwich of gobo, hard-boiled egg slices and pickled margarine on King's Hawaiian bread is the greatest meal on Earth.

As a very general guideline, if you wait till about 3000-4000 rpm before changing gears, you'll be in a meaty section of the Miata's torque curve, and won't drop into a torqueless void when you hit the next gear. Just like any other car, the Miata doesn't like being lugged, one reason they make lousy Tokyo taxicabs. Loping around town at 2500 to 3000 rpm is. Just don't lug the thing when you come to a grade. The car won't appreciate it, and neither will be the people behind you.

bwob

I own a 1994 Miata. The owners manual says towing a trailer is not allowed. I would like to tow a motorcycle. Is there an option that would allow me to tow a motorcycle?

Frank Brosius, Trooper, PA 19403, USA

Yes. A Mazda Tribute.

bwob

What do you think are the top five 2 seats roadster ever built??

Esteban Estrada, Godoy Cruz/Mendoza/Argentina

Esteban, this is a VERY tough question, and has required a lot of thought, even if I'm just going on my personal opinion. In reverse order (from number five to number one) I suppose I'd pick;

5

Datsun 1500/1600

Not so much a great car (though not bad by any measure) as it was an important one to Japanese industry. The success of the Datsun roadster wasn't lost on other Japanese car companies - Mazda included - and showed that there were profits to be had from sports cars. I'd sooner own one than an MGB. But then I'd rather have a Renault Caravelle (number seven on my list) than an MGB (number 11).

4

Lotus Elan S3

Lightweight, fun and good looking, with some of the niggles of the first two versions worked out. On the negative side, fragile, not too far removed from kit car origins and a properly tidy one won't be a bargain. Good enough for Mrs. Peel, so it's certainly good enough for me. I don't think the car got better in subsequent S4 and SE versions. Faster, yes, but not better.

3

MGA

Deservedly popular and a big seller, the A was the first truly 'modern' MG. Remember, we're talking mid-1950s here. Struck the right chord in the important American market, and laid the foundation for the MGB to become market leader. Though it was a technological dead-end - not to mention fragile and unreliable - the Twin Cam was an impressive machine in its day.

2

Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite

Simple in the extreme, the Sprite introduced the fun of sports cars to people who previously could never afford one. Like the Elan, it lost much of its charm in later, more sophisticated versions. Not fast, but an awful lot of fun.

1

Mazda Miata/MX-5/Eunos Roadster/Mazda Roadster

You didn't think anything else would have the number one spot, did you?

bwob

I have a 1997 Honda prelude SH. I want to put a really large exhaust pipe on it. 

factory exhaust system - 2 1/2 inches

connector for exhaust - 3 inches

Is there any way to weld on a Ractive exhaust onto the Honda without getting a whole new exhaust system

Taylor Borland, Winnipeg, MB, Canada

No, none that will work on a Miata. NA or NB.

bwob

We have a Honda Goldwing that is the same (close) color as our new miata,we have a small cargo trailer that is pulled behind the motorcycle when we take an extended trip. Do you have any information (good or bad) as to anyone's personal experience? Best Regards, 2 green roadsters

P. Thompson, Southern Ohio

None whatsoever. All the Motorcyclists I know ride things like FZRs, Hayabusas, Ducati 916s and 748s, and as a result are no more predisposed to tow with them than they are to have them towed. Anyway with a two-wheeled Buick like a Goldwing, shouldn't you be using it to tow the Miatas?

bwob

The kids are grown, I don't need a minivan, and SUV's are a waste as a single occupant commuter vehicle. I'm looking at purchasing a used Miata. It'll be the first two-seat roadster I've owned since I sold my beloved TR-4A when my first child was born twenty years ago.

My question is this Will a middle-aged, slightly balding man look too goofy driving around in this car? (no mid-life crisis; I just like the car). And if not, which will I look better in; the earlier body style or the later 99-01?

Jack Collins, Orlando, FL

Not if you wear a cap.

bwob

BWOB This is more of a preservation suggestion than a question. Living in the SW desert I have found the best way to save the dash is with a "cockpit" car cover. Dash mats (covers) may be used but they will still allow UV rays through. The added benefit is that you may not need oven mitts to steer or shift gears. Thanks for a great source of information and humor. And yes I am a convert after 25 years as a Triumph owner, mechanic/driver (when they would not leave a trail of parts)

Jim Babe, Phoenix, AZ

Thanks for passing that along Jim. The unending battle with UV a and UVb continues.

bwob

Have a '90 red 5 speed with hard top and in excellent condition. Never driven in rain or snow. Has only 2900 miles (yes, that's 2 thousand nine hundred). Lovingly cared for, and driven only on sunny days. What's it worth? I'm interested in top $ to buy something else, maybe a Miata- maybe not. Thanks in advance for your help. Gary

Gary Pacha, Iowa City, IA, USA

Don't like driving it, eh? Point the browser of your choice to http://www.edmunds.com  or http://www.kbb.com  to get a general idea as to what the market thinks pricing should be. You are likely to disagree, so be prepared for a shock or two, even with mileage adjustment. Bear in mind that unless you find the specific person who's looking for a 1990 red Miata with 2900 miles on it - and is willing to pay for it - the broader market's valuation of the car is probably going to be well below what you think it's worth.

bwob

Have a rattle in right rear of car.Not the battery or spare tire,trunk is empty.What would be the most likely cause--thanks-Mark

Mark Johnson, Durham N.C.

(This is a joke, right? Okeh, I'll play along) Sounds to me like something's loose. It could be anything from a damaged exhaust system mount, a broken or loose suspension mount anyplace between the transmission output to the rear wheel or even a de-laminating weld somewhere.

This is a rhetorical question - and therefore no reply is necessary - but is there any reason you haven't taken the car to some hapless professional who can get her or his hands on the car and will actually be able to hear the sound as well as specifically where it's coming from?

bwob

Your picture of an 01 Mariner Blue did it for me. I was ready to trade my 91 Mariner Blue, but there are NO currently available colors that compare. Tell Mazda they will have an order from Gulf Breeze immediately if I can get this color! Otherwise, I'll drive mine until the wheels fall off. By the way, I agree with you on the SE. It does look like an old man's car. I am an old man, so I should know.

Bob Schooley, Gulf Breeze, FL

I don't think I could possibly agree more.

bwob

Many Miata articles I have read over the last decade pointedly mention the minimal trunk space as one of the Miata's few drawbacks.

I've always wondered why the Miata trunk was designed so shallow when there appears to be ample room to lower it a few inches.

I suspect you will tell me it's "a balance thing", or "a weight reduction measure". But I would really like to know the specific reasoning that went into the decision. In what way would a deeper trunk have compromised performance? And then why not have an even shallower trunk?

This is not a gripe, it is simple curiosity. Having a deeper trunk isn't a huge issue to me, though my Triumph TR4A incorporates ample trunk space while still rewarding me with wonderful performance.

Thank you in advance for your response.

Kent, California

I sure hope you didn't have any bets going with anyone on this Kent, because it's not a weight reduction or balance thing at all. It's the result of packaging compromises made to accommodate the support systems needed to meet US and Canadian statutory regulations. I guess if you really want to stretch things, in a way it's a weight thing, but one of increased weight.

The real estate needed to package the bumper striker, enersorbers and structure to support the same (while allowing energy management systems to function in rear collision tests at speeds above which the bumper system is designed do its stuff) along with the room for the bumper to be displaced in low speed collisions is considerable. And as the Miata's petite overall dimensions reveal, there isn't a surfeit of room aboard. The alternative would be to have no US- or Canadian-legal bumper system, so the folks outside the 'States would have a considerably larger trunk than the non-existent Miata American's couldn't buy.

So the area below the trunk floor is effectively a 'no-go' zone. This is also the reason the fuel tank for the Miata is located above and forward of the rear suspension, rather than the way the tank might be located in the rear fender aft of the rear wheel centerline or below the floor as many sportscars of the 1950s and 1960s did. With no impact standards to deal with, packaging of cars built before these regulations came into force between 1973 and 1976 (there were implementation delays allowed for cars of different bodystyles). The US standards were toughened in the late 1970s, then rolled back in the early Reagan administration only to be toughened slightly in the mid-1980s.

The Canadian standard always stayed the same and is tougher to meet than the US law. Since Mazda had (and has) a corporate policy of building all cars to accompany the toughest applicable government standard in a given area, the US regulatory flip-flop had no real effect on any Mazda product sold in North America.

The TR-4 had delightful performance for a car of its era. However I suspect its performance in a Transport Canada 8km/h bumper pendulum test would be pretty woeful. Though the car would be considerably more compact afterwards. Oh, and the generous trunk space might be diminished somewhat.

bwob