Adding OEM switchgear to the Audiovox CSS-100

By hihoslva


For those that would like the factory look, the OEM cruise stalk can easily be added to the Audiovox cruise unit.  I’d like to thank member “Gibson99” for his guidance on getting this to work.


First of all, a warning:  


This modification will render the cruise control “always on”.   If you are concerned about not being able to completely shut down your cruise system, I’d advise that you not perform this modification.   You take on this installation – like many others – at your own risk.


Both the Audiovox unit and the OEM cruise control have on/off switches to arm or disarm the cruise control.  Unfortunately, the OEM on/off Cruise Main switch is a complicated piece, and I was unable to decipher it and get it to work with the Audiovox unit.


For those who do not want an “always on” system – it would be very easy to perform this modification, get it working properly, and then install a simple toggle switch on the power wire to the Audiovox switch box.  This would give the user the ability to switch the entire system on or off at their discretion.


Another option would be to actually figure out the stock main switch.  I couldn’t.  Maybe one of you can!


On to the install:


You will have to source a wiper stalk with the cruise control combination switch.  I got mine from sponsor The Parts Group, and they were a pleasure to work with.


First, install the cruise control exactly as described in this garage article:


Take your car for a test drive, and ensure that everything functions correctly.


Then we can get down to business.


The first thing to do is to render the cruise control “always on”.  This is best done right at the Audiovox  control box circuit board.


This pic shows the board in its “unmolested” state:


The arrows point to the two contacts we will need to permanently connect.  Break out your soldering iron (what, you don’t have one?  Off to Radio Shack you go.  Get the one for $8 that comes with a little coil of solder; you’ll need it) and heat it up.  It won’t take long until you can use just a little solder to connect those two points.  Here’s a pic of my sloppy solder job:



Yes, the center LED (LED2) is indeed lit in this picture.  If you made the proper contacts, that LED will light whenever the car is on (but make sure the car is off or the switch is disconnected while you solder!). 


Put the switchbox back together, and put it aside for now.


Next is installing your new wiper stalk with combination switch.


Contrary to other postings, the steering wheel and clockspring do NOT need to be removed to get this job done.  One member mentioned loosening the steering column – no need for that either.  What you need is one of these:


It’s a wrench-like ratchet with various screwdriver bits.  If you don’t have one, BUY ONE.  They are incredibly handy, and not just for this installation.


This picture shows the rear of a clockspring, and the arrows indicate the screws you will need to loosen (yes, just loosen – they do NOT need to be removed):


Remove the steering column trim, and use the ratcheting tool to loosen those two screws as shown (yes – the clockspring is still on the car!):



Loosen them until they almost come out, but there is no need to take them out completely.


Next, push back on the black plate that they were securing, and start to gently pry forward on the wiper stalk, as in this pic:


The rear of the stalk should pop out first.  If it’s being really stubborn, you may have to loosen the screws a few threads more.


Once the stalk starts to come out, you should be able to completely remove it fairly easily:



Now you’re all set to install the cruise control-equipped stalk.  It will go in exactly how the other came out; simply reverse the steps.  Once it’s in, re-tighten those two screws and check the function of the stalk – make sure it moves freely and functions properly (works the wipers, etc).


The wiring for the cruise switches is run in a very specific manner when factory-installed.  I’d recommend following the existing wire guides and using that same routing to avoid any possible pinching or binding when the steering wheel is operated.  You will need to cut the white harness off the end of the wires to thread it through the clockspring – but that’s okay, as you won’t need the harness anyway. 


The next series of pics follows the routing of the wire (all the clips and stays will be there).   These pictures are of a clockspring removed from another Miata.  I took these pics before removing the cruise stalk, so I could refer to them for routing the wires on my car.  I’ll reiterate – there is NO need to remove the clockspring from your car to route the wiring.   Simply use the next pics as a guide for routing the wires on your car.  Follow the red shaded line……..








All that’s left to do is wire it all up.


As was suggested by “Gibson99”, I believe it is best to leave all the Audiovox wiring in place, and simply tap into it instead of cutting it off.  I cannot say what would happen if the wires were simply cut and spliced to the OEM switchgear (especially since one of them needs to supply power both to the Audiovox switch panel and your new wiper stalk), so take the safe route and tap the Audiovox wires – don’t cut them.


The wiring is as follows (very simple):


Tap the black Mazda wire to the red Audiovox wire

Tap the yellow Mazda wire (*might* be red/white) to the Audiovox yellow wire.

Tap the blue Mazda wire (might be red/blue) to the green Audiovox wire.


If you would like to install your own on/off switch, now would be a good time.  Simply install it inline with the red power wire from the Audiovox  switch box.  If the green LED on the Audiovox box turns on and off when you use your switch, you know you’ve got it set up correctly.


And that’s all there is to it.  Clean up your wiring and secure it under the dash (including the Audiovox switch box), button up the column trim and any other parts you removed (probably the knee panel under the column as well), and you’re good to go.  As long as your Audiovox cruise was working properly before adding the OEM stalk, it should now function just like a factory cruise – except there’s no need to switch it “on” every time you get in the car.


Once again, a big thanks to “Gibson99” for the help with this great and simple mod.


Any questions can be directed to me at



Back to the Garage

25 June, 2006