Boost gauge

The boost gauge mounts to the A-pillar in a special pod.  Only problem is that you have to put some screws in it.  If you decide to take it of for some reason, it'll leave a couple of ugly holes in the pillar.

I routed the vacuum hose trough the firewall via an unused grommet just below the master brake cylinder (the big black cookie box).  It comes out just behind a pedal (I think it was the clutch pedal).  You have to cut the sound insulation a bit to get to it.  Then route it upward and to the pillar.  It has to be routed near the front edge of the pillar, or else it will be visible after installation.  Don't panic if it gets a bit squeezed.  I had to squeeze it anyway as the needle vibrated. I used a tie wrap to clamp it off a bit. 

The gauge is held in the pod with the black plastic bracket.  To fix it, you undo the 2 copper ribbed 'nuts' on the rear of the gauge.  Put the gauge into the pod.  Then put the bracket back on from the rear and fix with the 2 nuts.  I modified the plastic bracket a bit as the legs were too long to get proper clamping force.

The light of the gauge can be connected to the dimmer, just route the 2 wires to the switch.  Connect one wire of the gauge to the red wire and the other wire of the gauge to the red/black wire of the switch.  So don't connect any of the gauge's wires to earth.  Depending on which wire you would connect to earth, it would either work the opposite way as it's supposed to or it would either be at max intensity all the time.

Hood support rod

It has to be attached to the tab at the left front corner of the engine bay. It took me a while to figure out where exactly this tab was located. This tab exists on the other side of the engine bay too. On that side there's a bolt in it that holds the coolant reservoir.

Driving Time!

After checking, rechecking and triple checking it was time to start the car.  Fired up almost immediately.  HURRAY! Boost initially was only 5psi.  The manual say that by shortening the push rod 2 turns you get 1 psi of extra boost.  So I had to give it about 6 turns to get to 8 psi. I read some posts saying that it is to short and you have to thread it further to get enough boost... So it decided to give it 12 turns. OOOOoooops, 12psi... and I still had about a half inch of thread left... Duh ... turned it back and set it to 8 psi.  BTW, maximum boost with the standard setup is about 9.5psi, above that you'll go lean.

Although it took me a while to get the fuel settings correct I believe the kit is well worth its money. The car pulls incredible, even with only 8psi of boost.  Cruising in 5th gear is a joy.  The car goes from 120kph (75 mph) to 160 (100) in no time.  Really impressive.  
There's one little "down" side to it all though.  The exhaust almost makes no more noise!  The FM turbo duals effectively cured that problem. J

Installation of the Cannon brace was a bit tricky.  It didn't fit right.  The manual says to return it for a refund if it doesn't fit and not to try and get it on anyway.  Hmmm, send it back all the way to the States?  I just drilled out the 2 upper holes and put it on anyway.  Same problem with the sway bars.  The U-clamps interfere with the Cannon brace.  The manual says just to grind a bit away if they interfere.   Fits nicely now to.  Oh, if you decide to install bigger sway bars, do this before installation of the IC.  The tubes are in the way ... don't ask how I found out.

Update

In the mean time, I have replaced the stock 1.6 205cc injectors with the bigger injectors of a 1.8.  These are 230cc, which allows boost to be set to 12psi.  Greatly improved the grin factor.

I also replaced the original exhaust with Flyin' Miata Turbo duals.  This exhaust produces an incredible sound, but it's probably too loud for a normal aspirated car.  Because I fitted it at the same time as the bigger injectors, there was no need to adjust the turbo wastegate.  Just by replacing the exhaust, boost went up to about 12psi, just right.  This shows how restrictive the stock exhaust is!

The stock clutch won't last very long with these kinds of power, so I replaced it with a Kevlar unit.  Since it's too tough to get one strong enough in the 1.6's size, I had to use the bigger 1.8 flywheel.  This allowed me to use the Flyin' Miata performance clutch.

I recommend you to upgrade to a 4-wire O2 sensor.  I used the Borg-Warner OS126.  In the US, Pep Boys sell these for about $50 IIRC.  I haven't been able to find the correct one in Belgium, Germany or the UK.  Together with the ground wire modification, another must, the new O2 sensor has greatly improved the drivability of the car.  
Oh, while your at it, replace the radiator cap too.  They usually go bad after a year or so!  Replace it with a 1.2 bar unit instead of the original 0.9 bar cap.