Rust-Oleum Epoxy Sheild

[12/12/2004] Reviewed by: Kurt Wong -

Applicable to: '90 - '97 '99 + 1.6 liter 1.8 liter

Rust-Oleums version of a epoxy paint for garage floors. It's a 2 stage paint system, so all you do is mix in one can w/ the other to activate it. Stir stick, written/video instructions, cleaning agent, and optional cosmetic flakes. It's water-based, so it's not to high in odor vs. an oil based paint. Preferred time to apply is during the end of spring, basically 60-70 degrees is just perfect for it.

Additional Tools Needed: 1. roller frame varies on the size of area you're working with, but a good size 9in is nice to use. 2. roller cover, get one that's the same size as your roller frame, synthetic would be correct to use, as you'll be desposing it afterwards. Don't even think of reusing it. 3. Wire brush (5-7in length, 4 rows of wire bristles) 4. Brushes: - don't cheap out here - I purchased a Purdy Pro Extra 2.5in angled brush. The true animal type of firrs are for oil based paints, so get the synthetic brushes, pull it out of the case, and feel the smoothness. This makes a huge difference from those cheap brushes, as most pros call them disposable brushes. As of today, Homedepot has begun selling Purdy brushes. Prices will be insane to the novice painter, but I see it as a brush that will last a longlonglonglong time before it becomes useless. - to clean the brush, let it sit in some water, and if you'd like to add some washing detergent of some type. Hotwater isn't neccsarry, but helps out. Grab a wire brush, not the tooth brush sized ones, but those big ones that are 5-7in in length and have 4 rows of wire bristles. Then wire-brush the brush to remove the paint off of it. If there is some paint left on it, let it sit overnight in a pot of water. - once cleaned, put both hands on the handle, and spin it out clean of water. Then finish it off by slapping it back and forth rapidly on a post of something circular to get all of the water off. - you can either now put it back in the supplied case, or wrap it up nicely in newpaper. Doing this will lead to a brush that has it's bristles nice and straight. 5. Extension pole that will work w/ your frame....doesn't need to be too fancy. If you'd like to, get a nice one, as I'm assuming there will be other painting projects in the future. 6. Steel frame to use in a 5 gallon bucket. The frame is to even the paint on the roll cover, so it doesn't drip all over the place. It's about 7x10in in size, with hooks on each of the top ends to keep in place on the lip of the bucket. 7. 1 gallon and a 5 gallon bucket. 1 gallon will be used for cutting in the small areas, and the 5 will be for rolling. Reason why I bought this was that the family's garage floor looked like CRAP! Oil, and all other containments were saturated within. Clear the floor of anything, bring the broom out, sweep as well as you can. There is a cleaning agent that mixes w/ water to clean the floor, but isn't much good. I pulled out the strong stuff, such as bleach, and dishwashing deteregent (I'd highly recommend the same for the ones wanting to do this project). A large squeege would be a nice and helpful tool to remove the water off the floor. For those hard areas that are just literally saturated w/ oil and other containments, I used a tooth brush w/ the bleach/hot water to clean them up. Works really well. If you don't do this, be prepared to find some nice areas w/ fish-eyes, as the paint won't bond to those areas. As for the cracks in the cement floor, I used a cement patch, not such of a good idea in the cosmetic deparment, but I'm sure it's going to hold the floor together. If you ! wanted something more better in looks, I'd suggest some sort of caulking that resists water. My reason why is that it'll be flexiable, resistent to water, and has better looks than my paste up job. Once the floor is clean, patched up, and dry, it's time to PAINT :)! Grab the paint, and mix them together in a 5 gallon bucket. Mix it well, and pour a little in the 1 gallon. Grab your brush and cut in the outter areas where the roller can't do. Once the cutting in is done, no time to rest, go and pour the left over paint back in the 5 gallon. Put the roller cover on the frame, connect the extension, and begin to roll. Remember to roll to the door you are going to leave in.....don't want to roll the area you'll need to go to now do we :-). Once it's nice and rolled, close the garage and let it cure for 7 days w/o anything on it. After that grab the camera, and go ahead, you can actually lay on the floor feeling as confident as never before that your floor is so darn good to even eat off of.

After half a year, I can say this floor takes a beating, and still live to be quite nice. Brake fluid will eat it's sheen, but nothing more. Oil and other clean ups are more than a rag wipe away. If I had moped it at least once a month, this floor would look like new. Remember, it's lost the traction of a regular cement floor, so be careful when it's wet. Overall, for $50 for the kit, it's worth looking at a professional garage floor. CAUTION: Others will envy you :-P!

Difficult to remove without leaving damage

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