Roadspy

Converting a 1990 Mazda Miata interior with LED’s

by Michael Bednar

Remember, LED’s are polarity specific.  If you install an LED and it fails to light, turn it 180 degrees and try again.

All LED’s were purchased from http://www.superbrightleds.com/

1990 Mazda Miata

 

 

 

 

 

 

LED CONVERSION

 

 

 

 

 

 

Interior Lighting

 

Qty

Mazda Part Number

Light bulb Part Number

LED Part Number

Mazda Cost

SuperBriteLED Cost

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Map Lights (Stock)

2

000011302

Festoon 3022

3022-WWHP4

$2.29

$6.95

 

Floor Lights (Modified)

2

 

Festoon 3910

3910-WW6

 

$3.70

 

Heater/AC controls control lighting

2

NA01-61-C95

74

74-WWHP3

$4.28

$3.49

 

Heater/AC controls A/C indicator

1

NA03-61-C95

74 dim

74-BHP

$4.28

$2.49

 

Heater/AC controls A/C control lighting

1

NA02-61-C95

 

NEO3-W Instrument Cluster

$4.07

$1.29

 

Ashtray Light

1

362575139

74

74-GHP3

$3.69

$3.49

 

Automatic PRNDL

1

 

194

WLED-WHP5 194 Wedge

 

$5.95

 

High Beam Indicator

1

 

194

WLED-BHP

 

$4.95

 

Hazard Switch

1

NA01-66-462

 

NEO3-R Instrument Cluster

$4.85

$1.29

 

Barn Doors Switch

1

NA01-66-462

 

NEO3-W Instrument Cluster

$4.85

$1.29

 

Dimmer

1

BR7055431

 

NEO4-W Instrument Cluster

$4.97

$1.29

 

Gauges

4

362575139

194 w/Green Sleeves

WLED-WHP5 194 Wedge

$3.69

$5.95

 

Gauges

4

R49155431

74

74-RHP

$4.28

$2.49

 

Gauges

3

R49155431

74

74-AHP

$4.28

$2.49

 

Turn Signals

2

R49155431

74

WLED-GHP

$4.28

$4.95




 

I just finished the LED conversion in my 1990 Miata and thought I’d share the information that I’ve garnisehd over these past few weeks in hopes of saving time and money on their own project.

I started with the HVAC controls as they are easy to get to for the LED replacement.  I did read that you could use Finger Nail polish remover to remove the green from the Instrument gauges and I immediately thought that would work for all of the control panels in the car.  Wrong!  The HVAC has the colors layered on a clear sheet.  Black, white and green.  Removing the green with fingernail polish remover WILL remove the green, white and black.    I had to buy a replacement which is a different story alltogether.  Not all parts are created equal through the NA’s

To remove all the bulbs in the HVAC control unit you will need to remove the full assembly from the center console.  Two are hidden beneath the fan dial, which happens to be glued in place.  Do not remove the fan graphic.  Removing it may result in the ink being removed from it’s clear acetate surface.

HVAC Underside main rev small.jpg

This is the underside of the HVAC unit.  The two far left locations require removal of this unit in order to replace.


The left side of the HVAC unit requires two size 74 bulb and one mounted on it’s own fitting.  This shows the LED equivilant that I used.

WW=Warm White  W=White (although the switch has a green colored gel built in)
Revision: I replaced the lower left LED with the following part number 74-BHP  (Brighter Blue on the A/C indicator light)

HVAC Underside rev small.jpg


 

The right side of the HVAC requires one 74-WWHP

HVAC Underside Right rev small.jpg


 

The hazard and Headlight (Barn Door) retractor switch requires two LED’s.  Both had the green sleeve around the bulb which gave the green glow.  I use a red LED for the flasher and a white LED for the Headlight Switch.  Both are subtle when lit and provide adequate lighting in the dark.

EFBDS Incandescent Bulbs small.jpg

EFBDS LED replacements small.jpg

NEO3-R  and NEO3-W


 

The center console as I have done mine.

1990 Instrument Cluster for Automatic rev small.jpg


 

Full LED Lighting 3 small.jpg

Yes, the mileage is correct.


 

 

Full LED Lighting 2 small.jpg


Comments from Lucas Zaffuto:

I just followed the garage article to the letter to upgrade my 1995 and found a couple things you might want to add to it.

The article mentions that the brake light did not turn off when replaced with a red LED, but I also found that the airbag light will not turn off if replaced with a red LED. These lights will only dim instead of turn off like they are supposed to, so you might as well leave the incandescent bulbs in them.

If your car has a manual transmission you should not order the amber LED for the HOLD light or the white LED for the PRNDL light. Likewise if your car is not equipped with ABS you should not order the amber LED for the ABS light. These lights will never be used or lit if your car is not so equipped.

Altogether, that is two bulbs you definitely do not need and up to three bulbs you may or may not need depending on options... a $16 savings if ordered from from the suggested vendor.

If the pictures make you concerned that they might be too bright for you, I was pleasantly surprised to find the dimming function still works as it should.

Overall, I am extremely happy and satisfied with the update. The gauges are easier to read with very bright and crisp lettering and needles instead of the sick dull green glow they used to have, and they really look much more modern.



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