On the left is the new larger rotor. It has been painted red for clarity in this installation. Below are the hand tools needed for the conversion. Tools 12mm, 14mm combination wrenchs 14mm socket Vise grips or other large pliers Dead-blow hammer (you can use a soft faced mallet instead) Floor Jack, jack stands, Lug nut wrench Brake cleaning spray, yellow high temperature grease |
If you can rotate your tires, you can
swap the rotors on a Miata. Ever since the 1994 Miata arrived, owners of
the earlier model years have lusted for the larger brakes. There has been
a common misconception that this is a difficult process to do. But in reality,
you only need a few hand tools, the larger rotors, and the caliper brackets
from the larger brakes.
Mazda part numbers for the brackets:
These brackets ran about $200 for all four from Trussville Mazda. You will also need to order new brake pads from your favorite supplier. I like the Hawk Pads in Blue for the front and Black for the rear. Make sure when you order them, you specify that it is for a 1994+ Miata. (Note from Bob Ferguson:The early clips (the little ones that the pads slide on) will not work with the late syle pads (they are too short) You will need a Disc Brake Hardware kit from your dealer (for a 1994+) this contains 4 clips and 4 of the little springs. This is part # BYCF-26-49ZA-MV and costs about $10. Keeping in mind that this is for the rear. (The front on my car had already been converted.) (Thanks to Bob Ferguson.) |
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You should be
able to swivel the caliper back and forth to slide it out. Place it on the
lower A arm for safety. Next are the two 14mm bolts that hold the caliper
bracket to the spindle. These are fairly tight, so use that 14mm socket
probably a 1/2" drive 6 point is best. Save both bolts in the same
place as the lower pivot bolt you removed before.
Now is a good time to turn the wheel and do the other side. Follow the same procedure and make sure that you keep track of which bracket goes to which side. If you get confused, don't worry, the curved portion faces the hub and the straight part goes on the back, with the pivot hole on the top. |
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The long rubber grommet is really the hardest
part about this whole thing. The trick is to not rip the rubber when removing
or inserting it. I used a worn out thin flatblade screwdriver and carefully
inserted it between rubber and steel, then twisted the screwdriver to break
the seal on the rubber grommet. Once the seal is broken the closed end og
the grommet can be twisted up and then pull the open end through.
After the rubber and spring steel bits are are replaced, fill the grommets with high temp yellow grease. Now is a good time to pop the old rotors off. A small whack with a deadblow hammer might be needed to break the seal if rust has gotten in there. But a Miata in good condition should have loose rotors when the calipers are off. |
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You're basically done. Just slip the wheels back on, drop the car off the jackstands and go check out how fast your Miata can slow down. |
Back to the Garage |
27 July, 2003 |