Applicable to: '90 - '97 '99 + 1.6 liter 1.8 liter
Double Capacity Aluminum Racing Radiator
Feb. 2003: About 7 months ago, My '91 factory radiator started getting cracks and pin holes in the plastic end piece across the top; more than 11 years is not too bad-daily driver with 195K miles. J.B. Weld (on the leaks) worked for a couple of weeks while I decided on which new radiator to get. The all aluminum FM radiator has been installed for about 6 months now. No problems, no leaks, running cool. Installation was per instructions, not too hard, fits factory mounts for radiator and for fans. The aluminum overflow tube installed easily. FM recommended I use teflon tape on the threads and not overtighten it, and so I did this. No leaks, did not have to re-tighten the fitting. I am very satisfied.
If you are on a budget, it should be noted that the automatic miata version radiator is also a double core and would have fit my manual miata, but again it has the plastic top and bottom parts, and I plan to have this car for a long time and this one just looks cool!
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '90 - '97 1.8 liter
FM High Capacity Aluminum Race Radiator
Things were getting HOT, so I purchased an FM Aluminum Race Radiator. It has almost twice the stock capacity, yet is lightweight. The aluminum overflow tube supplied is junk, and collapsed while I was hand-tightening it. One should REQUEST to have a brass overflow tube installed at FM before shipping. After filling and checking for leaks, I started the car, and coolant spewed through the bottom seam of the radiator at the lower tank. I re-read the information sheet and noted that aluminum tubes expand if too much pressure is in the system. I'd drained and flushed the coolant system prior to installation, and thought perhaps some air had become trapped. So, I allowed the engine to cool, refilled the overflow tank, started the car and this time NO leaks. During the weekly commute the car's temp gauge never exceeded the halfway point, with very warm ambient temperatures and the A/C running on my boosted engine.
As I've had no leaking since the install, I suspect that the tubes expanded due to pressure buildup, and escaping coolant ran downward and simply came through the fins where they meet the lower tank.
The FM Aluminum Race Radiator is a Buy for those seeking a cooler running engine from a radiator that will fit with the RB front swaybar brace and will work with either stock or aftermarket fans.
Under 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '90 - '97
All aluminum radiator, the core are twice as big compare them to the stock radiator.
installation was easy. take out the 2 bolts from the radiator mount and disconnect all the fan wires and hose. car runs cooler even at 90 degree temperture.
when working with this radiator be very careful, because aluminum are very soft easyly damage. most important this is about the over flow tip. they don't come install. you going to have to put them on your self. hand thread first and snug tight with 10mm wrench. do not over tight!! they will brake !! if you do brake them use easy out from sears or live without the overflow.
Under 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '90 - '97 1.6 liter 1.8 liter
I had to take out my JRCAI box prior to the stock piece removal, so I drained all the fluid and removed the top radiator hose. I then loosed one of the hose clamps to the AFM and just pulled the whole assembly- easy as 1-2-3. After that, I just followed the directions and removed the fan assemblies and then the stock radiator- wow is it small. Installation was a snap EXCEPT for one small, very frustrating detail. The entire piece is aluminum and so is the small threaded overflow screw that I screwed half way into the filler neck and then....it snapped- DOH!!! I quickly panicked because it was a Friday and I had to get it working by Monday and I did not have time to contact DLR Alt for a replacement screw, but calmed down and thought about how to resolve the problem. I thought there must be some sort of tool that could be used to remove the broken off piece from the neck housing without totally destroying the threads in the housing.
I went to Sears and asked if there were such a tool, and of course they had it- it was a set of 4 drill bits that are reverse threaded (called Easy-outs). I was hesitant at first, but the broken piece came out in a snap and the threads in the radiator housing were still in good shape. Since the piece broke off only using half of the threads, I thought that I could get by by using the same piece- threads should be enough, but I also used a small piece of Teflon tape to wrap the threads before I screwed it in- this time I was very careful. It installed in a jiff and the Teflon will keep it from leaking if indeed there was any pinhole gaps. Performance: Of course TH was very hot(~90 deg.) and the course has a lot more turns than most tracks (less airflow to cool the engine), but I had no problems running hard @ Laguna Seca last week- engine stayed fairly cool (210-220) and there were no leaks. I give the FM radiator two thumbs up...
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
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