Applicable to: '99 + 1.8 liter
Remote Oil Filter system by Cobalt through Moss Motors
firs one I installed had a very fine leak in the cast filter holder attached to the firewall. Consequently, their was a fine oil spray under my car that I thought was due to improper installation on my part. Sent the car to local Mazda Factory repair and the mechanic/technician diagnosed it as a hairline flaw in the filter holder. I called Moss Motors who agreed to reimburse my creidt card for the Factory shop time ($70.00) and send me out a new one overnight.
Works well once one discovers there are no casting flaws.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '99 + 1.8 liter
great product
hard to install ,had to reverse the oil lines to make it fit, but after many trys finally got it to work.if both of the oil lines were the same length it would of been easier
Under 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '90 - '97 1.8 liter
Oil Filter Relocation and Cooler Kit
Didn't follow the directions step by step and ended up taking more time than I should I started out by mounting the adapter on the firewall, then proceeded from there. Threading the oil lines to the adapter was easiest to do from underneath the car. Oil lines didn't line up as nice as in the installation instructions, but no kinks with the way I routed them.
Drove home after the install - inspected for leaks - none. Works as advertised.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Applicable to: '99 + 1.8 liter
The kit consists of two metal units and two hoses. One metal unit screws on to where the oil filter is normally installed. The other metal unit installs on to the passenger side firewall inside the engine compartment. The 2 hoses connect the two metal units together (4 total connections) where oil is pumped through by the engine.
1st Problem: There is a recess for an inner gasket and one for an outer gasket - the outer one is of a larger diameter than the inner one. The unit I got only had an outer gasket (no inner one). I installed the system exactly according to the instructions. The problem came when I started up my Miata and saw a HUGE LEAK where this metal unit attaches to the engine (where the dealer installed filter goes). The problem was quite clear: the "outer" gasket does nothing to properly seal the unit to the engine. In fact - it doesn't even touch the engine. I discovered a 2nd leak coming from one of the two metal fittings where the hose connects to the unit on the firewall. At higher revs (2,000+ rpm), a small stream of oil was leaking out.
My recommendations are: (1) Make your unit has that inner gasket to seal the metal unit to the '99+ Miata engine as the outer one is 100% useless, and (2) Watch out for leaks in all 4 hose fittings to/from each of the 2 metal units.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Oil Cooler and filter relocation kit
Update from previous write-up. Since installation I've put 350 miles on the car. I noticed a drop in oil pressure on the gauge and attrinbuted the drop due to the additional plumbing the oil travels to the cooler and filter. All was well and then the dreaded clatter from the HLA's (lifters ) strarted every time I started the car and after I revved the car above 6,000 RPM. The car used to do this when I first bought it and I changed to 5w-30 petroleum based oil and the problem went away. I considered removing the oil cooler and relocation kit and sending it back then decided against it and changed the oil and filter again and upgraded to synthetic based 5W-30. The clatter is gone and it may be my imagination but it seems like the motor revs easier than before. Now if all the engine seals don't start leaking (is it true synthetic oil causes seals to leak?) all my troubles are over.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
The items were delivered to a local shop in 4 days. Everything was packaged well and instructions for installation were included. The hardest part of the installation was removing the plastic fastners in the inner nose piece to remove the nose to install the cooler. All of the lines are cut to length and route where the instructions suggest. The adapter plate that threads on to the oil filter mount has two tabs cast into the plate. I threaded the adapter plate on until snug and then tapped the plate tight with a hammer and a piece of soft wood. The instructions suggest using a large set of pliers but I could not get enough access to use pliers or a strap wrench. Don't tap too hard (+/- 1/2 a turn). Your just finishing the seating of the O ring so the unit will seal. The rest of the installation goes in as per the instructions.
I have run the car all week without incident ( no leaks noted). I change my oil every 2,500 miles and always dreaded the filter removal and installation. With the filter on the fire wall my troubles are over.
The main reason for installation was relocation of the oil filter. However, I do alot of stop and go driving in heavy traffic with the air conditioner running ( in a desert environment + 100 degree days) and I know the oil cooler can't hurt. This is a well thought out product and I would recommend to other for installation.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Kit to relocate oil filter to firewall (without oil cooler)
Follow the instructions and things should go well until near the end, where you tighten the adapter onto the engine. The instructions say to "use a large wrench to tighten the adapter". Given that there is all of about 3" of clearance, there is no way you can do this. I couldn't get a chain wrench to fit, and the shape of the adapter doesn't lend itself to attaching a wrench. If you don't tighten it all the way, you end up with the engine brace right in the way.
To tighten it that last 1/4 turn, I used a piece of wood and a deadblow hammer. Just place the piece of wood on one of the fins, and GENTLY tap it the last little bit (1/8 to 1/4 turn) into place. Once it clears the brace, it is also on tight enough to prevent leaking. I'm not sure how well a regular hammer would have worked (might have snapped the fin), and I'm sure the manufacturer wouldn't approve of this method, but it was the only way I could get it to work without leaking and/or interfering with the engine brace.
A worthwhile upgrade. If you are comfortable changing your own oil, this job isn't much more difficult. You will need stuff to do an oil change, ramps or jacks, a drill and bit, miscellaneous wrenches, and, if you use my method, a deadblow hammer and a block of wood. Other than trying to figure out how to tighten the adapter the last little bit, it was a snap to install. I'd do it again, if I had to!
This product relocates the oil filer from the engine block to the firewall on the passenger side of the car.
Product works as advertised.
I installed this kit on my '99. I had a MAJOR problem with the manifold brace. The instructions indicate that you should check for interference, but whatever I tried I still had a major kink in one of the hoses. Eventually, I resigned myself to cutting the brace (which, BTW, is a massive, heavy aluminum casting). I tried everything I could think of to avoid this but there really was no alternative. A friend suggested that since the adapter plate uses standard hydraulic fittings, a 45 or 90 degree angle hose adapters would probably have avoided the problem.
So far, I'm pleased with the product. A word of caution - when installing on the passenger firewall, be SURE there is enough clearance to actually screw the filter on (don't ask how I found this out!)
I was "motivated" by the second degree burns I recieved during my first oil change (comming down from the top). After removing the "under fairing" I can understand why some would leave this onerous task to the dealer.
Over 30 minutes to remove completely
Relocates oil filter to right upper firewall. Oil cooler forward of radiator.
If you think changing the oil filter on this car is easy, you shouldn't have any problem with this kit. Installation was not that difficult. Only hard part was getting adapter on tight due to horrible access to this area. Had to redrill two mounting holes in oil cooler base to avoid plastic ribs in plastic 'mouth' area where it's mounted. Didn't want to weaken this structure.
Once installed, changing the filter could almost be done standing up with a white shirt and tie. Don't know why the factory doesn't build them like this right from the start.
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